Moin, Moin (Hamburg via Bremen to Osnabrück approx. 300 km and 2 days headwind)

Hamburg my pearl, oh I love this city. This cheerful Moin, I HAVE MISSED IT. I once worked/lived here for a few months. Back in 2005, in the middle of my studies, I “moved” to Hamburg for a few months to work on a project (MS Wissenschaft (exhibition ship), Einstein theme year), object & art design at Kuba West. My plan was to earn money there to finance my studies and to use the evenings to study and return to Stuttgart every now and then to take a few exams. In the beginning, the plan worked. Then Knut arrived (in the apartment provided by Kuba-West). Knut brought a television, Knut brought beer, Knut brought even more, but above all Knut brought himself. Knut from Kiel, a carpenter or joiner, a very nice, likeable guy, liked to chat a lot, not exactly bright, but he didn't know that and had a big problem with himself (being alone). He and Peter (another freelance carpenter/joiner) didn't want to work with me at first, after all I wasn't on their level in terms of craftsmanship, but after the two of them started arguing more and more (well, two boss men) I became more and more popular, after all I knew I had two left hands, but at least I wanted to help and not be right. Anyway, when Knut came along, my evenings suddenly became more interesting. Knut had a silver (I think) Toyota in which we often cruised through Hamburg listening to Pearl Jam (Alive), loudly with the window open. Then, one Friday evening, we first went to the Schanze, had a few more beers there (after the obligatory after-work beers) and then to Pauli. And there we were. Knut wanted to go to a strip club and he was already inside, I was following behind. Somehow there were suddenly a lot of ladies around us, a big fuss. Anyone who knows me knows exactly what I did: I looked desperately into their eyes and somehow tried to strike up a conversation. The waiter asked me if I wanted a drink, I was fine with another beer. Not so Knut, whose eyes were lost in the crotch of a lady dancing on the table in front of him.  He said yes to the champagne for everyone, and it arrived before I could object. And suddenly, after everyone had had a glass, the fuss was over and the waiter arrived with the bill. 600 €. Sorry Buddy, not my bill. It really wasn't. Knut paid by card and was devastated when we left the place. He was really desperate. Somehow we both felt a bit robbed. It got a bit out of hand, his problem was that his girlfriend would definitely see his account balance. Somehow half-drunk (or even fully drunk), we went to the Davidswache on Kiez and, I have no idea why, wanted to press charges. The two policemen were looking forward to either stabbing me on the tranny strip or going to the strip clubs with me. On the one hand, Knut didn't want to go and on the other, we couldn't remember which club it was. And so I was driven around Große Freiheit in the Peterwagen and went to strip clubs with two policemen. The right one was quickly found, I was immediately greeted by the ladies there in a very friendly manner, I was very happy to see them again and my clothes didn't cause any great displeasure. Everyone was routinely taken in and I returned to Knut. The next Monday Knut was gone (picked up by his girlfriend), with him the beer and his TV and I was able to pursue my plan in asceticism again. A pity really, but very successful for me. This story comes to mind every time I'm in Hamburg, it's a nice one. What a great time it was back then. Poor under pressure but actually little responsibility except for myself.    

This time I was in Hamburg for a very special reason. I wanted to fulfill another childhood dream. A Body Count concert with mastermind Ice mo%&erfu%6er T b%&ch and legend Ernie C. Two incredibly formative albums for me back in 1992 and 1994. Pure social criticism and a sound that is still unforgettable today.  There I was at the concert and in my naive way I went to the front of the stage, second row, in front of me only a few girls and a steel barrier. Everything was fine with the support act, but they were quickly removed from the stage. Someone was really excited about their performance and didn't want the audience to get too exhausted. We quickly moved on to Body Count and oh my God, what came over me was enormous. Behind me was the absolutely celebrating mob, who went absolutely wild to Ice-T's rap lyrics and the booming heavy metal. 2 hours of power. The people who were still standing next to me at the beginning were quickly gone, a few of the girls in front of me let themselves be pulled out by the stewards. It was absolute hell and it was extremely cool. I had the luxury of a stiff arm to the steel barrier and was able to hold on while the crowd around me freaked out. I was able to shield the two girls in front of me from most of it and I myself am well trained. It was a tough workout though, I was soaked in sweat but totally happy. At the end, as an encore, came my two favorite songs (as ordered), Born Dead & This is why we ride as well as the cover of Pink Floyd's Comfortably Numb, which can be found on the new album. What a version, what a musician, what an exceptional talent at the age of 66. Okay some of his views (feminism & toxic masculinity), oh let's not go there. It was one of the best concerts I've ever been to. So back to the hotel, sweaty and hot, and after a few hours out and about on my bike. First through Hamburg, Speicherstadt, Philharmonie, Landungsbrücken, Pauli, Blankenese and further along the Elbe to Schleswig Holstein. There I went to a weekly market around ten o'clock to have a coffee and do some shopping. I was too lazy for the internet and wanted to know how I could get across the Elbe and a cluster of people formed around me. That's what I love about the north. Everyone is friendly, likes to chat and doesn't ask you questions. Some said that the ferry in the village was probably broken, others said they didn't know, but I could go back to Blankenese where there would certainly be a ferry or even further towards Hamburg and the route would be the most beautiful, along the Elbe (nobody was bothered by the fact that I came from there). I asked what it looked like towards the North Sea (Glückstadt). Yes, there is a car ferry there, but it's a long way (35 km) and it wouldn't run at low tide, but it's not low tide. However, there are barrages on the way and if I arrived at the wrong time I would either have to wait or take a long detour. So I should go back sooner. At some point I had gathered enough information and set off. I don't think they even noticed that I was leaving. Anyway, back down to the Elbe and the local ferry terminal was on the way (there was a sign saying it was closed) but I met a racing cyclist, the kind with a big, oh let's be honest, fat belly. He said the ferry would be leaving in just under 90 minutes and disappeared with a friendly grin. If you can believe it. So I set off in the direction of Glückstadt, I hadn't quite understood about the barriers (please google), but I had no problems, they are all closed at the weekend (at least most of the time) and you can pass through them. So I cycled the 35 km to Glückstadt on the Elbe cycle path. It was actually a single sheep pasture, very idyllic. At some point I reached the ferry terminal and was lucky, the ferry was just about to dock. At 2 o'clock I was on the other side of the Elbe but I had a problem, I still wanted to get to Bremen, a whole 100 km, with a strong headwind and at 4 p.m. it started to rain. But Lower Saxony has an almost continuous long-distance cycle path, which is also almost pothole-free, one per 10 meters, which is nothing compared to NRW. I didn't make much progress due to the headwind, and most of the time the cycle path was on the left-hand side of the road, which made me slow down at every exit and junction (unfortunately I've had too many accidents with inattentive drivers who don't look to the right before they set off). In the evening, after 170 km, I arrived in Bremen, pretty exhausted, a quick trip to the supermarket and good night. I like this city too, very familiar and friendly and home to my favorite club. I've also spent a few days working here, also in 2005, then really on the MS Wissenschaft, setting up the exhibition. That was the year when Albrecht (the captain) got “lost” or extended his cutter (as Knut called it) by 10 meters over the winter and then forgot to fit through all the locks. And so, together with 3 other craftsmen, I took a detour via Holland in the belly of an inland waterway vessel and laid carpet in shipbuilding in the Ijsselmeer. I'll never forget how the metal of the ship's side worked in the waves. UNFORGOTTEN. In any case, the rest of the MS Einstein's superstructure was then in Bremen.

Today I wanted to do the 180 km to Münster, but had to realize around noon that it would probably make more sense to take the train in Osnabrück. I have to work tomorrow and have no vacation or am on a longer tour, so another 130 km into the wind was the end. Lower Saxony is quite nice, I'll have to take a closer look, Dammer Schweiz and so on, and Oldenburg also looked quite nice. On that note, good night.